Johannesburg - Rest, relaxation, the sounds of the bush come alive as the sun dips behind the Magaliesberg.
The only crowd, a few well-pampered guests, not to mention the welcome of the distant calls of the myriad animals.
The aptly named Buffalo Thorn Hills Lodge is just an hour from the urban sprawl of Gauteng.
Gentle undulating hills, dotted with various species of acacia and large open savannah plains, make game spotting just that much easier. Various antelope give us a wistful look, giraffe peer down at the vehicle, finding the trees more interesting. A proud ostrich struts her stuff for us and shows off her clutch of eggs.
As darkness descends, a welcome sundowner on the vehicle makes me marvel at the beauty and sheer size of one of the oldest mountain ranges in the country; soon the last sliver of light dips behind the distant bush, leaving a dark serpentine line along the horizon. And absolute silence.
We’re on the outskirts of the town of Magaliesburg, close to the city, but it feels kilometres away – walks, drives or just lying on the welcoming patio by the azure pool.
Ditto can be said for the rooms; unwind in your own outdoor shower, with its endless views across the country’s untamed gem, the Magaliesberg.
More than just a private reserve, it’s a home from home, nothing is too much for hosts Steven and Deidre Lindeman, and their impeccably trained staff.
Expect to put on a little weight as the cuisine is sublime.The kitchen and dining room are open plan and there’s nothing like watching the two master chefs at work. Guests, only five of us, head to the boma fire and share good red wine and fascinating stories. One thing we all agree on is that South Africans love being in the bush and marvelling at the inky blackness of the night with a dusting of stars.
Having no predators – well, not the ones that will be stalking you – makes this a unique game lodge; it makes cycling, walking, hiking pleasurable and, for the exercised-challenged, there is always the comfort of Land Rover.
Steven, a jack of all trades, is a bush bunny, lodge manager, chef, ranger and human Google. He keeps everything laid-back, no crack-of-dawn drives; perhaps a gentle walk, bird watching from the deck or just a good book with nothing but the company of squirrels – not to mention an inviting pool with views that stretch for kilometres.
If you are a history buff, the battle of Nooitgedacht took place on Buffalo Thorn land – the original monument built three days after the British defeat is still there and a later erected cenotaph.
We tend to forget the importance of the Boer War and the role the Magaliesberg played in its outcome, used as a shield and barrier to hold Pretoria, by then in the hands of the British.
The lodge is self-sustainable, off-the-grid and an eco-model hopefully many will follow. A great touch is a flask of hot water placed outside your room for your morning caffeine fix. Freshen up with a choice of an indoor or outdoor shower, head for an early breakfast, a later brunch and with no rigorous itinerary experience the bush as it should be, calming.
Many seeking a bush experience insist on predators. Buffalo Thorn taught me the opposite – the beauty of nature, an appreciation of all things big and small.
The joy of a group of South Africans around a fire just enjoying being South Africans, leaving the politics at home.
The lodge is an hour from Joburg and as you leave the last of suburbia, the road meanders among the hills till the oasis of Buffalo Thorn beckons.
Arrive as guests and leave as friends Steven and Deidre know the art of hospitality, so it is not surprising that guests return again and again.
l www.Bluethornhills.co.za
Glenn Lewington, Saturday Star
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